Kokoda Adventure 20th April to 1st May 2012

A year on and still the most amazing, incredible, unforgettable and rewarding journey I've had yet.
 

20th April 2012 - Sydney to Port Moresby

A freezing 1am start from Newcastle did nothing to help overcome the varying degrees of excitement and terror pumping through my system, nor silence the questions racing through my mind. Was I really doing this? What if I didn't make it? Had I packed too little? Had I packed too much? Did I have the right gear? Had I trained enough?... Then somewhere between Brisbane and Papua New Guinea, a blanket of calm came over me and as I stepped off the plane into the sticky, dusty, humid heat of Port Moresby, I was ready for the real adventure to begin.

At the hotel I met up with Tori, Brad and Micky (who were in effect total strangers but I'd signed up for the trek with them through a friend) and after dinner and meeting in a small cosy hotel room, the rest of the 2A group came together (and what an amazing group we would become) to discuss the history of Kokoda, our reasons for being there and what we could expect over the next 9 days. Adrenalin and last minute packing cancelled out any thoughts of an early night...

21st April 2012 - Port Moresby to Owers Corner to Ua Ule Camp

The first in a succession of early mornings.

Dressed in fresh and clean hiking gear and chattering with eager but nervous anticipation, we enjoyed the buffet breakfast, loaded our packs and boarded the bus. With a nice winding drive out of the city into the mountains, we were en route to Owers Corner to begin our northwards trek to Kokoda.
 

At Owers Corner we met our crew and personal porters. Our partner group 2B (who would be our shadow the entire way and share our campsite each night) did the same. My porter was to be Max, the dreadlocked, Bob Marley loving grandson of Fuzzy Wuzzy Ndeki Ovaru. After some waiting in the sunshine and photo's under the arcs, crew leader Terry yelled out our first countdown and we were finally, officially, putting feet in mud and on our way! And what better way to start than with a slippery descent through the forest to our first river crossing. 

Todays lunch of me-goreng two minute noodles and saladas with spam, cheese, jam or Vegemite and washed down with tea, coffee or milo with powdered milk and sugar was to become our daily midday menu. While there were sometimes other tasty additions to this menu (mainly fresh fruit) and the energy from these foods was useful, it will still be some time before I willingly eat two minute noodles again.

  

Tonights camp at Ua Ule was a pretty little riverside location where we soaked our tired bodies in a chilly river and relaxed with fresh salty popcorn before a carb loaded dinner. Most nights at camp had the same routine - refill water, wash if possible, put on full length clothes and mozzie repellent, nibble on popcorn, wash down dinner with a hot drink and head off to bed to recharge.

22nd April 2012 - Ua Ule to Ioribaiwa Village

The rooster (aka Group Leader Gareth) crowed at 5am for another sunny, humid day of walking with lots of mud and river crossings but then to our surprise we were done by 9am. It was thought there would be another group at our intended small destination so to avoid crowding we pulled up stumps at the lovely locale of Ioribaiwa instead. It was so lovely to sit back and chat with the group while soaking up the sunshine although I ended up getting sunburnt thanks to my anti malaria medication effecting my skins sensitivity to sunlight (haha - makes me sounds like an albino vampire!)

23rd April 2012 - Ioribaiwa Village to Agololo

This was a very long and demanding day, walking from 6am to 5pm to regain some time and distance lost yesterday, tackling the Maguli Range, getting drenched in the swamp lands and a big 'get ya ass in the water' river crossing. In the swamps, however agile you are, if it's pouring rain there's no point leaping from point to point to avoid the mud. Just accept the fact you're gonna get wet, acknowledge your shoes aren't gonna get dry again til ya get home and relax - you might actually enjoy the experience! 

The rain stopped shortly after we got into camp and once again we soaked away our aches and pains in the river. Tonight was our first experience of the wonderful harmonies of the crew singing. Truly beautiful and restoring to our tired souls.

24th April 2012 - Agololo to Brigade Hill

Another big day and a bit of a struggle today after yesterdays efforts adding on very little sleep and a tummy bug to boot. What a relief to stagger into camp and stand under the shower for a few moments, even if it was a wee trickle.
Tonight is the gathering of our two groups going north and the two groups going south to join together for the ANZAC Day ceremonies tomorrow. Brigade Hill was a significant battle sight during the Kokoda Campaign and to have this location to ourselves for ANZAC Day will make for an unforgettable experience. Tonight I go to sleep listening to the soul lifting singing of the villagers and can't imagine a more fitting way to end the day.

On another note, en route to Brigade Hill we passed the location of the plaque dedicated by the Parer family to war photographer Damien Parer. A lot of the old photos you might see in relation to Kokoda were captured by Damien. Some of his relatives live in Newcastle today and no doubt they are so very proud.

 

25th April 2012 - ANZAC Day - Brigade Hill to Naduri
Five years ago I stood in Anzac Cove, Gallipoli with thousands of Aussies, Kiwis and Turks and thought the emotion and atmosphere could never be beaten. I was very, very wrong. A much smaller gathering of Aussies and PNG villagers in a very different landscape such as Brigade Hill still gives me goosebumps to remember.

Starting at 5.30am in the pre dawn dark, we gathered together with the villagers and remembered those who fought and or gave their lives for our freedom. The PNG crew sang their lovely anthem and we, shamefully, followed suit. I say shamefully not because I dislike our Anthem but because of the miserable way we sing (mumble) it. It will never hold a candle to the humbling harmonies of these villagers and crew, using their hearts as much as their voices when they sing. We should take note in the pride they feel.

 

Following the planned service, former Wallaby player Joe Roff stood and gave a heart breaking rendition of Eric Bogle's 'And the Band Played Waltzing Matilda'. The photo below was taken by him while we wandered around after the ceremonies wrapped up.

Crew Leader Terry called out his countdown at 7am and we were on our way to Naduri - my porter Max's home village and home of his grand father, Fuzzy Wuzzy Ndiki Ovaru. As per the norm we had lots of hills and creek crossings and with my shoes still wet, my feet were starting to smell a right treat. Our journey today took us through Efogi which is pretty much the half way point of the trail and I was absolutely stoked to get two of my favourite foods - bananas and tomatos - to nibble on for a snack. Never have either tasted so fantastic! We also stopped in at the Efogi War Museum - a tiny hut packed with goodies.

Camping at Naduri was another one of those once in a lifetime kind of evenings. After being treated to a meeting with one of the last Fuzzy Wuzzys , we were spoilt with a home cooked dinner with taro, sweet potato and choko leaves followed by an evening of singing by the local church ladies and children. They were so charming, giving us all leis and flowers and honouring us with their singing but unless you were there, its almost impossible to describe the spine tingling, goosebumpy kinda feeling we all got when the men had quietly gathered around the outside of the hut and surprised us by joined in by raising their voices with their families. Early on in the trek Gareth had said these villagers should record their music and tonight I understood why - even if it is only to enrich the memories of us trekkers. At this moment I didn't care that my stinky shoes were still wet, that my sunburnt face was peeling or my filthy clothes had a manky creeky smoky smell - right here was about as close to heaven a living soul could get.

26 April 2012 - Naduri to Templetons Crossing #1

Back to the daily grind again with a 5am wake up but the hiking today was quite bearable. Not sure if this was due to such an amazing day yesterday and a lift in spirits or just kinder conditions in a long slow incline followed by a steep descent into camp. Today we passed the highest peak in our trek at 2240 metres and took in the magnificent views.

The crew had a great giggle at our expense today. Several of the lads had gone up ahead and disguised themselves with charcoal and bushes, ready to ambush us as we approached. I think they managed to frighten our shadow group a little better than ours but it was fun to watch these guys playing practical jokes on us and enjoying themselves so much.

 

27 April 2012 - Templetons Crossing #1 to Alolo
Today is our second last day on the trek and by god are my knees feeling it! Normally I would be stoked that its pretty much all downhill from here out but the descents are very steep and there's still a lot of mud out to trudge through. But what a glorious day. And no rain!! Most days we've been getting a light to medium shower in the afternoon but nothing as heavy or constant as the day we were in the mudflats and certainly nothing to worry us more than slipping the waterproofing covers over our packs. Happy to say my biggest complaint tonight is how disgusting my clothes and shoes smell. They'll be in for a good wash when I get home (if they don't get confiscated through Customs as dangerous goods...). And believe it or not, I'm actually starting to dread the end of this adventure - I'm not sure if I'm ready to go home yet - especially when the crew keep singing us to sleep!

Todays highlight of old Jap hats and bomb shells pictures above. This was located near a heap of smaller ammunition and a big weapons pit.

28 April 2012 - Alolo to Kokoda 
Last day of hiking today and quite fittingly it's a beautifully sunny, humid and bright day for the last 20kms. Our first stop this morning is the stunning Isurava. Most people who come to PNG for ANZAC Day will go to Bomana War Cemetery or come here to this significant battle site. The four plinths stand for Courage, Endurance, Mateship and Sacrifice - a fitting tribute.

I'm in alot of pain with my knees today. The flat, open, grassed and viney sections are truly heaven amongst the steep and slippery slopes. I've been abusing my body here for over a week so admiring the picturesque scenery and enjoying the company of my fellow trekkers is keeping my sanity in check - just. And then we staggered into Hoi, our last stop before Kokoda.

Hoi. What a Godsend! Coming into this little campsite there's a little stand selling softdrinks and twisties before a little creek crossing and then a hut by the creek where our lunch was to be served. Somehow, I didn't get a photo of this heavenly locale - it may have had something to do with my crawling straight into the creek to soak and refresh my poor tired body before tucking into some awesome fresh fruit and some other stuff concocted with left over 2 minute noodles.

A brief rest with butterflies and a sunshower and we're on our way again, this time for the last leg of the trek into Kokoda. The path is now mostly flat and meanders out from the jungle into thick vine covered fields and eventually we start seeing signs of civilisation again. And finally as we walk in single file into Kokoda, 96 km's from our beginning at Owers Corner, we see the welcoming arches of the end of our trail!



As we came into camp, we set up a guard of honour for our awesome, friendly, funny and helpful porters. It was truly a joy having them along on our journey. Not just for helping us carry our packs but their strong help with gentle hands, setting up and dismantling tents, transporting and preparing our food, the beautiful singing into the evenings, an adorable sense of humour and mostly an admirable humility we could all learn so much from.


After settling into camp, we took a wander around Kokoda, mostly a quick group photo and a visit to the museum - which I didn't get any photo's from as my camera died - again.

Tonight we have a little party joined with group B to revel in our achievements and take the time to kick back and relax knowing the trekking part of our journey was complete.

29 April 2012 - Kokoda to Popondetta to Port Moresby
Our last early morning but no more hiking. Todays adventure is our two groups travelling in the back of a truck from Kokoda to Popondetta Airport - a bumpy couple hours on bench seats with bumpy dirt roads and creek crossings.  

 

Stretching our legs in Popondetta, we stocked up with lunch to consume at the airport and visited the local Memorial.

 

 



Finally in the searing heat and humidity we get to the airport, only to find out our plane is delayed due to a cracked windscreen which needs to be repaired and other travellers who arrived many hours before us are still waiting so naturally we wont fly out until after them. Fortunately after over a week in PNG, we're all well practiced in the art of waiting patiently so we find a few scarce patches of shade on the grass and amuse ourselves with sleep, playing cards and dreaming of where we'll get our next big steak feast. The picture below was our waiting area with roadside markets outside the fence we weren't supposed to go out.  

 

Several hours later, sunburnt (again) and a little stir crazy, we boarded our sunset flight back to Port Moresby and our rooms at the Holiday Inn Hotel. Back to civilization. A bittersweet mixture of city smells, traffic, hawkers, security guards at the hotel, air conditioning, hot showers, clean sheets and washing machines. After luxuriating (by which I mean scrubbing mud off my body and washing my matty hair) in the hot showers and scraping the last chunks of mud off our boots, our two groups met in the dining room for our last dinner together and a presentation of certificates to confirm what to me is my greatest accomplishment to date.

 

 

 

The rest of the evening is spent chatting over a few scotches, swapping stories and email addresses, washing filthy stinking clothes and repacking in preparation for flying home tomorrow. Home. Sweeeet :) But a little part of me will miss all this :(

   

30 April 2012 - Port Moresby to Home
So nice to wake up without "Gareth the Rooster" crowing outside our tents. So nice not to be waking up in a tent.

Time is on our side today and we have a few hours spare before our flights leave so we're off to Bomana War Cemetery. Unfortunately some of our fellow trekkers had to fly back early this morning and it's a shame for them to miss this opportunity given our past weeks activities but after our huge delay at the Popondetta airport yesterday we had no choice but to cop it on the chin. As such, there was only a handful of us here but perhaps our small group made visiting this special site made it all the more personal.

We wandered around the rows of rows of headstones and found the sites of many well known soldiers and heroes in this meticulously kept, lush cemetery. The visitors book on display in a small building at the end of the rows displayed the names of Australian dignitaries, such as current Minister of Defence Stephen Smith, from during the ANZAC Day ceremonies and as luck would have it, we arrived about 10 minutes before the wreaths from the days before were removed.

The rest of the day was spent with goodbyes and airports. Happiness to be returning to our homes, sadness for the end of this journey. Appreciation for the lives we have, longing for the simple life we don't.

Some of the people I've met on this adventure and the memories I've gained will be forever held in my heart. We are so lucky to have the freedom to be able to take this journey and should be so full of pride, admiration, sorrow and gratitude for the Australian and Papua New Guinean people who put their lives on the line in order for us to do so.

More photo's can be found HERE.

More information on the Kokoda Campaign and Track can be found HERE